DAY 6

We check out Mount Moriah Cemetery, the final resting place of Wild Bill, Calamity Jane and Seth Bullock.

Routes to any of the main cities or towns are on beautiful scenic byways and beautifully maintained roads. We take the steep and winding 14A through the town of Lead. Lead is an old mining town with old-fashioned shop fronts, galleries and museums. The now-closed Homestake Gold Mine was recognized as the deepest mine in the western hemisphere – 8,000 feet below the town.

I ask a lady in the tourist info center how to find the location where the final scene of Dances with Wolves was filmed. I'm told it’s past Roughlock Falls on the 222. I'm also informed that Roughlock is the most beautiful place in all the Hills.

Spearfish Canyon is special. The scenic byway twists through it; imperiously steep cliffs flank the byway. Oak, elm, aspen and birch trees blanket the canyon. Waterfalls of crisp clear water snake through.

We stop at the start of the Roughlock Falls trail. The sky is so blue I even take a picture of it. Unfortunately my camera phone doesn't do it justice. The walk is on a small track along a winding stream, home to bright green foliage and wildflowers. I'm snapping all the time – so much to see.

At the end of the trail we arrive at Roughlock Falls, a small but impressive falls crashing down the canyon. Joe and I continue on past the falls looking for the Dances with Wolves filming location. We're on foot and it's further than I thought. Will I recognize it when I see it?

Not sure how far it is but I keep going and then I see the wooden road sign: "Dances with Wolves Film Site." I would have missed it. I head past the sign on a faint trail I can just make out. I enter an oasis amongst the trees; tall grasses grow wild. This is it, this is where the camp was, and now through the trees I make out the bluff. It's great to see, to know I'm in the exact spot.

Do you know the scene from the movie? Kevin Costner joins the Sioux at their winter camp. The camp is sad as he has to leave. The U.S. Army is desperate to find the treacherous turncoat, Costner/Dances with Wolves. He must leave to save the people so as not to draw the might of the U.S. Cavalry onto the Sioux. The warrior Wind In His Hair stands on the bluff high above the camp. As Dances with Wolves and his wife are leaving, Wind In His Hair shouts "sum any tatanka n obiwache" (I have no idea how it’s spelled, so this is my phonetic translation). The sound echos throughout the canyons to the village below. "Dances with Wolves, I am Wind In His Hair. Can you not see that I am your friend? Can you not see that you will always be my friend?" Dances with Wolves stops, looking up, almost at breaking point, he pauses before nudging his horse on the trail leading away from the camp. Wind In His Hair repeats "sum any tatanka n obiwache," but more urgently this time. He looks a fine warrior. Head bowed, with great reluctance, Dances with Wolves leaves.

I'd always thought that I'd be able to stand on the bluff but there is no path. Off the gravelly 222 I find a steep bank. "Joe, give me 5 minutes.” 30 minutes later I'm flat against a steep bank, slowly crawling upwards. It's treacherous but I'm going to find a way to the bluff. I'm way off the beaten track, but I love that. 45 minutes later I find the bluff. I can just make out the 222 and the RV a small dot. “Go on Stew,” I tell myself. "Sum any tatanka n obiwache," I shout. Embarrassing, I know. But I had to.

Evening approaches. We decide to head towards Devils Tower, just over the border in Wyoming. The tower, a geologic wonder steeped in Indian legend is a must. We head west on Interstate 90 turning onto Highway 14. You can make the trip a circular 121-mile Devils Tower road trip, which is what I'd recommend.

The scenery on the way is beautiful. As we get closer, we see it. A huge rock protruding out of the rolling prairie – its shape appears unnatural.

The tower is the first-ever national monument in the USA. It just comes from nowhere. We camp at the KOA. We are parked up with a clear view of the tower. We head to Aladdin’s store that has a restaurant just down the road and get a bite to eat. It’s deep-fried and delicious and of course the friendly staff makes us feel very welcome. “We really appreciate you came out to see us.” It really is my pleasure. We buy a couple of beers from the store and head back to the campground.

British Invasion